Present Joys

“We thank the Lord of heaven and earth
who hath preserved us from our birth
for present joys, for blessings past,
and for the hope of heaven at last.”

Tag shot cotton

3 posts between June 2011 and August 2012

The last three shirts of the summer. I actually finished these several weeks ago, but I’ve been so busy with other. In the interest of completeness, here they finally are! Visually, these aren’t too exciting. Especially because they look very wrinkly in these photos. But they’re probably the three best-fitting shirts I’ve made yet—and that’s the goal! Two of these shirts are made from Kaffe Fasett’s shot cotton, one in periwinkle and one in crimson. The other is a slightly heavier cotton-print polka dot—my first polka dot shirt. All three are from Sew to Speak.

All three of these shirts are practical, good things to have in my wardrobe, and I’m looking forward to wearing them a lot this fall. I’ve already made good use of the bright red one by wearing it as part of a cowboy costume for Vacation Bible School! It has the most exaggerated spearpoint collar I’ve ever made. But I’m becoming quite comfortable in spearpoint collars so it’s not a big deal!

I finished these shirts in early july. Since then, I’ve been tailoring a coat completely by hand. Though it is very rewarding, it’s been taking a lot of time. I’m almost finished with it, and will have it done in time to go back to school on monday. Photos to come shortly.

Thanks to everyone who’s been following along with my sewing adventures this summer! Here’s to making even more things in the future.

It’s been two weeks since my last shirtmaking post, mostly because I had some trouble with my patterns which took time to resolve. More on that later. The first shirt here is a seersucker “fun shirt”—something I’ve wanted to make for a while now. I used leftover grey seersucker from the shirt I made a few weeks ago, along with 1.5 yards each of red and green seersucker from Jo-Ann’s. I had no idea how much fabric to buy since I knew I’d be using three different colors instead of just one piece—turns out, I probably could have gone with just 1 yard each. The shirt is a popover, i.e, it’s got a front placket like a polo shirt that’s about 11″ long.

Fit-wise, trying to make a popover was tough enough—I shouldn’t have complicated it by using seersucker, which is notoriously stretchy and difficult to measure. The shirt turned out alright, but the center front. Cutting a popover really showed me that my pattern wasn’t as good as it could be, especially around the neckline. After this realization, I spent almost a whole week just working on a new pattern. I went back to my favorite shirt draft and drew everything out from scratch. You can’t really tell, but I dramatically altered both the neckline shape and the armscye. On my old pattern, the armscye was 21″ around—on my new pattern, it’s only 18″. It takes a little longer to put on my new shirt pattern, but the higher armhole means it fits better and gives me more flexibility. I cut three new shirts from my new, improved pattern.

There’s a short-sleeved shirt in red, white, pink, and cool grey fabric from Sew to Speak. I thought the colors looked very nice for summertime, which is ironic because the fabric itself has scarves on it. Nothing too special; just a better fit!

I also made a long-sleeved shirt out of Kaffe Fassett “shot cotton” from Sew to Speak. The fabric is wild and glorious—it’s as light as a feather, yet perfectly opaque, and it’s brilliantly-colored. I used bright yellow cotton thread to do all the stitching, instead of the typical white, and I think it gives the shirt a little character. The sleeves are gathered into the cuffs, a technique I still really enjoy.

Finally, I made a casual shirt out of grey fabric with foxes on it, again from Sew to Speak. It’s got a straight hem instead of shirt tails, designed to be worn untucked! It’s some of the coolest fabric I’ve ever seen.

So, after several weeks of mediocre results in shirtmaking, I’ve finally arrived at something I’m really proud of. I remade my entire draft after last week’s shirt, because I was not totally satisfied, and I think my pattern is vastly improved this week.

The fabric is Kaffe Fassett’s “shot cotton”, which I got from Sew to Speak for $9/yd. It’s extremely fine, and a great pleasure to work with. I was running out of white mercerized cotton thread, so I opted for this weird light-brown cotton thread I got at Banasch’s. It’s deadstock thread—old, and very fine quality. The effect of brown thread on yellow is nice. I used plastic brownish “horn” buttons instead of pearl.

As you can see, I made the inner collar stand out of the cool polka-dot fabric from my worst-fitting shirt to date. I think it looks really nice with the yellow… there’s a silver lining here!

I snapped this picture of the wrinkly, incomplete shirt while I still had daylight, but I am happy to report that it is 100% finished, with all its buttons attached and a hand-rolled hem. I’m going to wear it tomorrow with other flame-colored clothing in honor of Pentecost.

And one more note: I’ll be out of town for the better part of the next two weeks. This afternoon I cut out all the parts for two new shirts, but I won’t have the time to construct them until the end of the month. So “one shirt every week” will be on a hiatus until then. Stay tuned!